New Look 6569

The first item on the sewing plan is New look 6569.  The top is a simple knit top with a v-neck and gently gathering around the bust area.  The neckline, armholes and hem are all rolled and the sides simply sewn.  Too easy right?

Not easy at all.  The pattern itself is easy, two pieces to cut out, simple to sew.  The fitting not so much.  As a knit it was easy to decide not to make any alterations and see how much the pattern would give.  I cut a size 12 which suited my waist and high bust measurements.  Everything came together beautifully, and once the shoulders and side seams were on I tried it on for fit.  Please excuse the boob shots.  

New look pattern with pieces folded back over bust

See the problem?  Where the V is cut is where you gather the sides together, and as you can see, there is no way it will fit with gathering.  On the upside, it fits pretty nicely without adjustment if you like low cut tops.  It really still needs a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) but the interlock gives enough that the fit is similar enough to RTW that it’s not irritating.

The small pieces I’ve pinned back would have been part of the gathering previously, but I’m eliminating them and just finishing the top as is, if not a little low cut.  If the neckline and hems are finished nicely enough, it’ll be a good going out top.

Is it cheating to do this?  It wouldn’t fit at all otherwise.

When trying to hem the neckline, I unfortunately stretched it so the v-neck was even lower.  The result?  The old trick of filling in the gap with a contrasting fabric was the result.  What do you think?  I’m not letting myself cheat – I’m going to do a FBA and try this again properly.

Fit
The initial pattern didn’t fit at all over the bust.  I’ll do it again with trying a FBA and the gathers across the bust.  I’m also tempted to one day just draft a higher rounded neckline however the reality is this is a beginner pattern.  No fancy pants alterations.  No running before walking.  *sigh*.

Fabric
This was a plain black interlock knit from my stash.  Purchased from Darn cheap fabric in Heidelberg.  Easy to sew with except for the neckline.  Next time a longer stitch length will be used and I’ll try tissue paper underneath the fabric to help stabilise the seam.

Techniques
Changing up the stitching to achieve the best outcome (overlock/zigzag and straight stitch) with some hits and misses.  For a basic pattern, in trying to be a beginners pattern the final finish isn’t amazing as none of the seams would have been finished.  If you were trying to learn to sew just from commercial pattern instruction, it would be nigh on impossible.  If you’re interested in a discussion about learning to sew and pattern instructions check out the discussion AND the comments on Did you make that.

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6 thoughts on “New Look 6569

  1. Carolyn says:

    At least it’s a wearable first attempt. The shoulder and underarm areas look like they fit well. Just a bit more fabric across the front of the chest and the next one will look marvelous.

  2. I’d probably bind the edge as is and then have the option of wearing different singlets underneath, rather than adding a permanent “modesty panel”.

    • I’m still toying with the idea of removing it. It just relies on me being up to date with enough washing to have a singlet to layer it with….

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