After loving my first Tiramisu, I quick smart ordered some organic red cotton jersey from fabric.com (which incidentally arrived the same week). It was beautiful and slinky, and delicious to cuddle.
This was an absolute pain in the arse to sew. The weight of the skirt meant I altered the bodice front 4 times, and I need to go back and raise the back band of the waistband, as it’s significantly dropped.
Using the equivalent of steam a seam (which is fantastic) was the only way to make this dress, but the other problem? If you went within 2 foot of this jersey with an iron it would mark. Luckily, and the how or why of this is beyond me, after washing there were no iron marks. It looked seriously burnt before. Gah.
Thank god this pattern is worth it. It’s well designed, the dress is lovely, and the way you choose your size is positively inspired. At the recent Social Shopping day, there was three Tira’s (one striped, one solid, one print) worn by Belle, Kirsty, and myself and it was decreed to be super dooper comfortable, although more suited to stable knits. Incidentally, if you go to MyMessings blog, you can see us all in action shopping, and I love this photo as it’s totally pick the out the sewing patterns we’ve all used!
If you weren’t aware that knits have stability, the general guideline is the more you swear while you sew it, the more unstable it is. You know what also doesn’t help? Forgetting to change your sewing machine needle, and using a sharp heavy weight needle. Oh my, did that punch big holes in the fabric.
While this was more frustrating to sew compared to my first Tiramisu, this version is terribly comfortable. It’s my go to around the house and out and about dress, as I slip it on and forget I’m even wearing it. I still love the Tiramisu pattern, and would recommend it to anyone, especially beginners with knits, however if you are a beginner do go for the more stable knits, and check out sewing cake for hints and tips, and even to follow the tiramisu sewalong.
In the above photo, even though I’m not standing straight (so the CB seam looks off), you can see how the whole back looks like it has stretched down. The lightweight cotton means in the fit check, I cut off at least two inches off the front of the bodice, and I need to do the same for the back, but perhaps only a inch. Without raising the back of the waistband, the shoulder seam is pulled forward towards the bodice.
The pockets also pull on the dress and stretch, which means my iphone is too heavy for the pockets, however snotty baby tissues are fine, and considering that’s the usual contents of my pockets it still works ok for me. Pre-baby though, on such a lightweight jersey I would skip the pockets.
This was an organic cotton jersey from fabric.com, which cost USD$7.98 per yard.
The cotton is lightweight enough to wear on a 37 degree day, even with the length and skin coverage. My overlocked at the outermost setting still was stretching any seams on this cotton, and I had to use steam a seam fusible tape on everything.
The big plus for this fabric is that even though it’s lightweight, it doesn’t stick to every lump and bump along the way, which is also a factor of the well designed pattern.
For the cutting out of the Tiramisu I used a rotary cutter and self healing mat, as it is the easiest way to maintain the grain and not have the fabric slipping. For pattern weights I alternated between canned tuna and canned kidney beans depending on the size of the pattern piece. I snipped all pattern markings with my scissors.
Every seam ended up being stabilised with the birch haberdashery equivalent of steam a seam. Which is seriously the only way to sew slinky knits. The seams were mostly just overlocked, and then a single line of topstitching done with my sewing machine (eventually) with a light ballpoint needle.
I haven’t bothered hemming the dress, it doesn’t really need it and I’m lazy. WIN.
The biggest problem I have at the moment (which is actually a really small problem to have in your life) is how to remember what needle is in my machine. I end up throwing out needles all the time as I have NO IDEA WHAT IT IS. It’s getting to the point where I either need to never leave a needle in my machine, or ask everyone else how they remember…….
While the drape of this fabric is beautiful, for now I might keep using it (totally buying more) for t-shirts, and maybe some underthings. It’s washes up really nicely, retaining it’s softness so it could make very comfy underpants. More on that another day…